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YJ Snorkel 
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Joined: Fri Jun 03, 2011 7:05 pm
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Post YJ Snorkel
There are many variations of snorkels out there, from the $600 pre-fab to the $50 do-it-yourself ones. Different Jeeps require different set-ups of course, so depending on what you have will determine what options are available.

I have a 95 YJ with a/c and have all the factory stuff that came with it. I'm also keeping my windshield washer bottle, which makes it difficult to run an air duct under/through all the wires, etc, which most people tend to do.

Some use PVC and others use steel tubing that they bend or have bent. Since I was doing this myself and wanted to use materials that were on hand or easily obtained, I decided on ABS. To me, ABS is less likely to crack and since it's black ( as my YJ is ) I didnt have to paint it. If I painted PVC or Steel and went through the normal woods I tend to go through, it would have streaks and scratches all over the tubing. You can scratch and gouge the ABS and since its black it stays black. Of course if you painted it you'd have the same problems as the others.

I looked at going through my hood, but I didnt like how the snorkel cap would interfere with my vision. The YJ is different than the other CJs and newer Wranglers, as the cowel is part of the body and there is no cover. I really wanted to have my duct run to the cowel and use the vent cap like the H1 has, but since theres no cover that can be taken off on the YJ I couldnt do it that way.

So, with all these things accounted for, my decision was to go out of the SIDE of the hood along the drivers side.

The following photos were taken sometimes during my fabrication, and sometimes after. I have read and read all kinds of posts and ideas, so maybe my journey with this will help you decide yours:::

I assembled several different fittings and of course the main tube. If you dont have a factory air box, or want to use a different one, be sure you use something that can be sealed ( kind of defeats the purpose without that huh! ).
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I wanted to run 3" air duct to make sure I got all the air I could for my little 4banger. I used a 3" drain with rubber seal and locking nut from the hardware store for the side air inlet.
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Because several friends had told me that they really felt a difference on the highway after closing off the front air linlet while using their snorkel ( thanks Jeepxlc ), I decided to keep the front inlet. A 2" THREADED PVC pipe fits perfectly, and was then sealed with waterproof silicone. The 3" snorkel air inlet was cut with a 3 1/4" hole saw, the drain placed in the hole, and siliconed watertight. Make sure you go through the entire air box and silicone all the openings that water can leak in to.
Now, I'll be utilizing 2 air linlets to my factory air box around town, then when I know I'll be going in to the soup I'll simply cap the front 2" pipe and run the snorkel air.
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Next you want to assemble your snorkel....WITHOUT the GLUE. Make sure you only push the fittings together....measure twice..three times..then cut.
Hold your snorkel up to your Jeep and find the line you want to have with it.
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I had hinges on my windshield that were for aux lights and decided that the bolt holes would be the perfect place for a bracket. You can use the inside holes or the outsed hole...your preference, but you'll have to use angle iron for the inside holes.
I had some steel flat stock and knew I was going to use the outside holes. The upper bolts were messed up so I used the bottom hinge hole. I used a grade 8 bolts so I knew there would'nt be a problem with it breaking. I simply drilled the U-bolt holes into the flat stock first, then marked how far out I wanted the bracket to be in relation to the hinge support hole, then cut.
After the bracket was made and the snorkel placed along the side, I was able to see where the front needed to be. Since I was going through the hood I also had to trim where the fender and hood meet. I snipped that area and was then able to close the hood better. Then, I drilled 2 holes for another U-bolt and bolted the front part of the snorkel ( used a rubber 90* ) to the fender. I cut the U-bolt legs off a bit to keep anything hanging down under the wheel well to a minimum.
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The Hood:: Thats where my stomach became upset. The thought of cutting into a prefectly good hoodmade me nauseous, but oh well, it had to be done.
With the hood closed on the rubber 90* I was able to rough out a hole. I taped the area around the hood to keep the damage to a minimum, then used a combination of cutoff wheel, saws-all, tin snips, and assortment of files to make the hole.
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After making the cut and filing it all down, I cut a length of transmission hose and split it down the middle ( what I had laying around- you can use whatever you want ) to line the opening. I spray painted the fresh metal to cut down on the rust, then applied some clear silicone to the outline. Then, when I pushed the hose back on the outline the silicone made a nice seal.
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I made one more attachment to secure the main tube to the body by drilling one more set of U-bolt holes. I made sure I had enough room inside the cab so I could tighten the nuts ,and I was done.
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My view sitting inside has not been diminished a bit and it's very secure to the side. I'll have to try it out soon so I know for sure! :wink:
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This was how I did mine. I wouldnt mind having a single piece of pipe bent like this to give it a sleek look, but this works for me...so far. The nice thing also is that I can take it all off in a short bit of time. I'll have the hole in the side of the hood of course, but I can live with that if I ever needed to.

_________________
A set of D44 axles, some gears, a pair of seats, a fuel tank, a couple of rear bench seat, and running gear....just need to find something for it to all go in now.
FL4WDA V.P.


Fri Jun 17, 2011 11:40 pm
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